Wilderness Navigation

I’m going to try something a little different today and do this all on my phone!

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Heybrook Lookout

FRIDAY 12FEB2016

At some point in the very recent past I lost track of my compass. At this point I’ve concluded it’s either becoming one with nature or in the dark recesses of a forgotten pocket or stuff sack.

Whatever, it’s gone. Life is about change and how we deal with it, so I bought a new compass.

I was in a rush. I slipped in the door minutes before REI closed. It’s Friday, “Hey, I work for a living too!”

I’m courteous, these people wanna go home. I’m moving my ass.

Turns out in the mad flurry of all my ass moving, I left with a fixed declination compass, a Suunto A-10. Fantastic. Not an approved compass.

OK, OK no problem. I’ll just draw the declination in with a marker, good, done!

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Happy campers

SATURDAY 13FEB2016

After an early, lethargic drive we arrived at the Mountaineer’s Heybrook Lookout parking lot. I guess there has been a problem with break-ins at the regular trailhead so they use their own instead.

Oh, get this. I found my compass, it was in my backpack. Don’t judge me, we’ve all been there.

The wilderness navigation class is a requirement for Mountaineers trips, as well as just a good idea before you try your hand at jumping off the beaten path.

As you might expect, the students represent a wildly mixed bag of experience and physical fitness.

The slowest person sets the pace.

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El bosque oscuro

EXERCISE #1: FIELD OF STUMPS

We all assembled at Heybrook Lookout to take a break and to split into groups.

Get this! Some meth head stole the copper lightning rod from the Lookout!

What a world.

Anyway, we marched beyond Heybrook Lookout to the vast, neo-ecosystem that is the high tension transmission wire easement.

Humbly dwelling below a pair of the stoic, steel giants are number of rotting stumps, many with a letter or number placarded atop.

The idea is to take nine sightings from three different vantages and compare your findings to the master key held by the instructors.

A two degree discrepancy or less is desired.

Some of us thought the wires were having an effect on our compasses.

Maybe a sort of electromagnetic interference or something else reasonably sciencey sounding.

One of the instructors said they had brought out science equipment in the past and detected no such sciencey sounding disturbance.

I believe him, I think it was too much or too little caffeine.

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This sort of thing could have gotten you burned as a witch some years ago…

EXERCISE #2: LEAPFROGGING

After our lesson in stump location we were told we’d be leapfrogging.

We split into teams of two and were given a bearing and a starting location.

Your team member follows a bearing for a dozen yards or so, then you take their bearing, and they take a back bearing on you. If your findings are in agreement you move to them after which the process is repeated.

It was fun, and it works. 

It worked so well it led us all to the lunching spot; an abundant, but heavily clouded panorama spanning eastward to Baring Mountain and westward to Mt.Persis.

After lunch we were told we’d be heading to the final exercise…

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A giant long fallen

EXERCISE #3:”KILL-OMETER”

“We were specifically told this wouldn’t be a death march!” 

… And it wasn’t. Rather an easy mile or so up a snaggy, old logging grade. 

The rain had been constant, but mostly light up to this point. Now it was really starting to come down.

“Pick a difficulty ranging from mellow to challenging. You will then be assigned a bearing to follow for approximately one kilometer. You will travel as a pair, but work as individuals. If you complete this exercise without your partner, you will be failed.”

Up to this point the only other way you could fail was by walking on the highway during the quarter mile or so from the parking area to the trailhead. 

 Things were about to get serious.

Teams were launched about five minutes apart on their mission downhill and through the woods.

The forest was mostly free of annoying shrubs, but there were a lot of windfalls and dead snags.

There were also some monsters left over from the tree mining era just rotting away on the forest floor.

I thought the “Kill-ometer” (btw that’s NOT what they called it) was a pretty good exercise to top off the day.

If for some reason you doubt the utility of a map and compass, the “Kill-ometer” will easily put those thoughts in check.

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Gritty action shot

THEN WHAT?

Logically, the goal was also the assembly point and so there we all waited.

Steadily our numbers grew until there was only one pair left descending the hill.

The rain was coming down, and we’d been out in it for eight hours. Looking around you could see it in some people’s eyes. (Remember: all skill and fitness levels)

Some folks were obviously a little under prepared to spend a full day under the faucet.

However spirits remained high with laughter and conversation heating the body by warming the soul.

The last two finally arrived and after a congratulatory speech we all marched out. Like an army at first, then dwindling into groups, pairs and loners.

Our little group met a young family on their way up. Mother, father and the little one enjoying a walk in the February rain.

On the way to the Mountaineer’s parking lot we had to walk through the Heybrook parking area.

There was only one car there, probably belonging to the young family.

One window was smashed in, glass was all over the ground. Their car was robbed.

I can’t help but wonder if it was the same crackheads who stole the lighting rod.

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Tree mining

INTERESTED IN LEARNING?

Whether you are old hat or still drenched behind the ears, developing your outdoor navigation skills isn’t a bad idea.

Taking a class isn’t necessary. If you are so motivated, these are all skills you could learn on your own or with a friend.

Get yourself a copy of “Wilderness Navigation” (The Mountaineers),  a proper compass and a USGS map.

You oughta do OK.

Taking a class however has the benefit of instructors who can help you, novel exercises that you might not ever do on your own, and who knows you might even meet a friend.

Classes probably exist in your area

If you live anywhere near Seattleopolis, the Mountaineers offer their navigation course year round.

REI offers a navigation course as well, so if you live within driving distance of one of those, that could be an option.

The point is, there is probably something near you if you look.

I developed many of these skills on my own over the years, and after finally taking a class I can honestly say that maybe classes aren’t such a bad idea after all…

I’m not sure “Teenage Harry”, hiking the hills in ripped up jeans, a T-shirt and a duct taped pair of Chuck Taylor’s would still quite get it though, he was always learning the hard way.

Anyway, however you learn, with knowledge and experience we can develop the foresight to keep the odds stacked in our favor in our adventures.

So why sell yourself short?

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A blurry, hairy biped

Happy trails!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bitter Creek

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Index-Galena washout…again.

Took a trip up to the Bitter Creek cirque via the abandoned forest service road (NF-6310 on google maps)

Not really looking for anything particular this time, but there are mines in the area.

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I’d say this is a moderate, albeit brushy hike for most people in reasonable shape. If you are a vigilante trail worker you might wanna bring a saw or loppers.

There are a couple of gully/creek crossings that may be difficult or impossible to pass in high water.

Wildlife was abundant. Grouse on every other switchback, lots of bobcat “sign”, and even surprised some mountain goats at one of the gully crossings!

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Las cabras monteses

There is also a great deal of old growth to see at the higher elevations of the road.

Entering the cirque was like hiking in a whole new land.

A light but heavily crystallized snow coated the grade and a steady cold air flowing from the mountain kept the cirque in a perpetually frosted state.

This effect was more pronounced near the creek and in low troughs.

The road splits near it’s end, the left route is said to take you to a gully in which are a couple of mines (I have not yet visited)

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The cirque head

The right route heads toward the cirque head but terminates not long after the fork.

I found flagging and evidence of a bootpath that may continue into the cirque, a climber’s route perhaps, but due to time constraints, this for me was the end of the line.

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Bitter Creek

I’d definitely recommend this to the more adventurous hiker seeking to explore some new ground, but it’s difficulty is low enough that most reasonably healthy people could make the trip.

That being said, it is overgrown and has enough deadfalls that it could pose problems to less experienced hikers.

PACKITINPACKITOUT!

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The road less traveled…

THE NUMBERS

Distance: 8 miles RT ± (13km RT±) from roadblock

Gain: 1,640ft ± (500m ±)

Difficulty: YDS 1-2

GETTING THERE

Take the US-2 to Index-Galena Rd. continue along Index-Galena Rd. until roadblock at Lewis Creek. Hike approx 1 mile to NF-6310.

RED TAPE

I think you might need a NW Forest Pass. The Index-Galena Road is currently (DEC2015) closed at the Lewis Creek parking area, so you’ll have to hoof it from there.

MAPS

USGS BARING

USGS INDEX

 

 

 

 

Damon Point

That's the big water.
That’s the big water.

Wind, waves and wildlife are all found in abundance at Ocean Shore’s Damon Point!

The walk is self-guided (no-trail) and is approximately four miles around the entire peninsula.

Spawn till you die!
Spawn till you die!

Alternatively, an abandoned road leads to the center of the vegetated area. It can be hard to see unless you are on top of it, but I assure you it’s there. This makes travel into the peninsula’s heart far easier, and less environmentally intrusive. (Aside from the road’s very being there of course)

The interior is mostly beach grass and Scotch Broom with a few hardier native species sprinkled around for good measure. There are small marshes and channels interspersed as well, so watch your step.

Beachcombing will undoubtedly turn up lots of driftwood, shells, agates and other interesting odds and ends.

Many parts of the surf zone have a deep relief change resulting in dramatic waves when conditions are right. Surf’s up dood!

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Currently (as of 2015) there exists a driftwood beach shack at the southern end, which can make a great place to get out of the wind and have a picnic.

On clear days Damon Point offers views of the Olympics, Westport and even Mt.Rainier.

WILDLIFE

This place is a bird watchers paradise!

Deep inside the Scotch Broom
Deep inside the Scotch Broom

Many species of sea and shorebirds frequent the area such as the ‘Near-threatened’ Snowy Plover.

Streaked Horned Lark are a threatened species which use the point for nesting, for this reason the DNR has erected signs around the perimeter of the peninsula’s vegetated center closing the area off to wanderers from March 1st- September 15th.

Staying out during this time isn’t just a courtesy, it’s the law.

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Probably the most famous avian visitors to Damon Point are the Snowy Owls, which can occasionally congregate on the windswept spit in the winter months. This in turn can attract throngs of bird watchers, which serves to attract bird watcher watchers, and the watchers who watch them. Lots of watching going on here.

 

Artistic flora
Artistic flora

Seriously. It happens…maybe.

Deer, if you didn’t notice on the drive in, are found in ridiculous numbers on the Ocean Shores peninsula, and the Scotch Broom forest of Damon Point is no exception.

HISTORY

As mentioned before, at one time a road spanned into the heart of the park, but has since been destroyed by raging storms. You can still walk the remains of it to the Ye olde abandoned parking area. Oooh scary!

In the early 1960s the S.S. Catala served as a “Boatel” in Ocean Shores, before being run ashore at Damon Point by the New Year’s Day Storm of ’65.

There it languished until the 1980’s, when a girl fell through the ship’s deteriorated deck, breaking her back. The resulting lawsuit forced the state to cut the wreck apart and bury it.

S.S. Catala
S.S. Catala

In the 1990’s the wreck was exhumed by winter storms, with subsequent storms revealing more and more of the wreckage.

In 2006, a hiker noticed oil leaking from the badly rusted hull. In response, the state department of ecology remediated the site, ultimately removing 34,500 gallons of heavy fuel oil and all traces of the S.S. Catala.

CONSIDERATIONS

Dog walking is a popular activity at Damon Point, but please keep your dog on a leash, and especially out of the vegetated swaths of the park.

Ground nesting birds and dogs don’t mix.

Unfortunately garbage is abundant. Bottles, derelict fishing gear, shoes, socks, the kitchen sink… There is a lot washed up from the Pacific and from years of careless visitors.

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Reasonable accomodation
Just came on the market!

If you think ahead, do a good thing and bring a garbage bag to pack out some of the crap.

You’ll probably notice that the garbage cans onsite are often overflowing with floatsam and jetsam, so take the trash with you.

Ask a local business to use their dumpster, they’ll likely oblige and appreciate your hard work.

Storm watching can be a fun activity for some of us, but bear in mind that high tide and high surf can easily send breakers right across the point. After all, in this article alone they have already beached a boat and destroyed a road!

You could be sent across along with them…

GETTING THERE

Find your way to Ocean Shores, WA.

Enter Ocean Shores via the fabulous 1960’s era white stone gateway. This is Point Brown Avenue.

Simply follow it south until you see the scary derelict hotel, then look for parking.

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RED TAPE

No pass required for parking!

The park is Day-use only, dawn to dusk.

The only other red tape is the annual March 1st-September 15th travel ban through the park’s interior areas to protect threatened nesting sites.

 

PACKITINPACKITOUT!

…and of course, Happy Trails!

Wilson's Warning
Wilson’s Warning

Ol’ Blewett

Ol'Blewett
Ol’Blewett

Rain, rain and more rain was on the forecast today. Despite that, armchair enthusiasm was running high!

We headed up for Snoqualmie Pass, bolstered by rumor that there was enough snow to make it worth the effort to break the snowshoes from their long, long hibernation.

Well, there was snow, but it was a lot higher than any of us really cared to hike in this sorta November slop.

So instead Blewett!

If it’s rainy on the west side, it’s usually a little less so over there. The fact that the place is absolutely steeped in mining history is another selling point, at least so long as I’m concerned.

The arrastra
The Arrastra

We got to the old townsite and took a quick tour.

First we swung by the arrastra, a curious artifact sandwiched between the US 97 and Peshastin Creek just south of the Blewett historical marker.

The crushenator
The Crushenator

The second site we visited was the remains of the old stamp mill, which is in surprisingly good condition considering the proximity to the highway. Definitely a gem hidden in plain sight for the history minded road tripper.

Briefly we headed back down the highway thinking that a hike along Negro Creek would be fun, but with the high water, didn’t seem worth the treacherous crossing. So…back to Blewett.

We built this city on Rock n’ Roll

We followed the little footpath which passes the Keynote Tunnel and followed it to it’s end before beginning  uphill.

Two thick metal cables were stretched down the hillside, inviting us upwards to find their source.

Gaining the ridge granted us some beautiful views of the surrounding hillsides partitioned by low, soggy looking clouds.

Nuclear Moss
Nuclear Moss

Continuing up, we passed countless collapsed adits and cuts, sometimes marked by small piles of shattered, milky quartz left behind by those who still search these hills for precious metal.

One small cut even contained a pick axe and shovel. Modern no doubt, but waterlogged and weathered.

Old tram something probably

The ridge made a nice stopping point and allowed us ample views up and down the US97 corridor.

Leaving the ridge, we opted for a more direct path to the car.

CONSIDERATIONS

Blewett can be a fun place to visit, but be aware that there is a lot of privately claimed land in the area and many potential hazards in the form of open shafts and deteriorating tunnels.

Respect all private property postings, not just because it’s the right thing to do, but because many sites are full of hazards, and… some people can get pretty weird when that funny yellow metal is involved. Just a friendly word of caution.

As always PACKITINPACKITOUT!, leave it better than you found it, take only pictures leave only feet prints, and especially in the Blewett area: STAY OUT, STAY ALIVE

It is in these hills that Juan Valdez and his trusty mule...
It is in these hills that Juan Valdez and his trusty mule…

Happy Trails!

 

 

 

 

 

Greenwater’s Area 51 or: How I learned to stop worrying and love the Cold War

WTF?!
WTF?!

Did you ever happen to catch The Prisoner? If you are an American I’m guessing probably not.

I happened to have a grandma who was hooked on BBC shows. Consequently I was just as likely to be sat down in front of Monty Python as I was Sesame Street.

Bad rover! Bad!
Bad rover! Bad!

Anyway, on the show The Prisoner there was this strange white orb called The Rover. It kept the prisoners from escaping “The Village” by incapacitating them, I seem to recall that it could even kill people.

Get walkin'
Get walkin’

It made an impact on me as a kid, and the bizarre thing continues to dwell somewhere in my psyche.

Then one day driving down the Hwy 410, there it was. Looming white in contrast to the stately evergreen blanket beneath it. What was the Rover doing here in real life? and in Washington State?

I decided to do some internet research…and then the story got a little weirder.

Turns out that the mysterious white orb was a “gap-filler” radome built during the cold war to detect low flying Soviet Bombers. While that’s not incredibly remarkable, the fact that it is even there may be…

я покажу вам Кузька и мать!
я покажу вам Кузька и мать!

On paper the thing was planned, but never built. Yet there it is, boldly standing in defiance to it’s own non-existence along the Hwy 410.

According to the information I found, the site’s ID designation was to be P-1B

I was also able to get my hands on a current flight planning map, on which it is simply marked as ‘radome’.

Nothing unusual here...
Nothing unusual here…

THEORIES

  1. Bond villain hideout
  2. Aliens bro!
  3. Exclusive nightclub?

The site is hemmed in with barbed wire topped chain-link and to add a little bit to the mystery, the private property signs are completely devoid of any information as to identity of the operators.

It's not flying, so it's not a UFO
It’s not flying, so it’s not a UFO

An L-shaped building with blacked out windows is also within the fenced area.

Numerous security cameras watch your every move with silent vigilance. A tin foil hat might help keep them out of your thoughts.

Tin Foil Cat

Honestly if I were to guess I’d bet this is a Boeing site, but admittedly I base that on very little.

Firstly they are the largest aviation company in the area. (…and the second largest defense contractor on the earth.)

Two-stly, the private property signs look very much like the ones posted around Boeing property.

Shaky? Maybe, but I think it holds up to Occam’s Razor better than Bond Villain nightclub staffed by Aliens. (But I want it to be so badly!)

RED TAPE

THIS TRIP MAY BE ON PRIVATE PROPERTY, but…

So far as I could tell there is no legal reason you cannot visit the area, so long as you do not attempt to enter the enclosure itself which is clearly marked as private property.

The Hancock gate at the bottom does not state that a Hancock Forest Pass is required for walk-in entry, but this could be out of date, or subject to change at any time.

Is it just me, or does this look...dirty?
Is it just me, or does this look…dirty?

Know before you go. Trespassing is trespassing, and usually moreso if you are being a general nuisance.

GETTING THERE

If you are driving SE on the SR 410 during the daylight hours, you will probably notice this thing hanging out on top of the hills north of the highway.

You’ll have to deduce which logging road you will have to take to get you up to the thing. The correct one has a rather large open area to park, and past the gate, starts climbing immediately.

If you get to Federation Forest, you’ve driven too far. (but Federation Forest is another great place to go roaming around!)

When walking up the logging road there are a couple of intersections, when in doubt, stay right.

As always, PACKITINPACKITOUT!

Oh, and if you ever plan to have children, don’t hang around this thing too long.

Avon calling!
Avon calling!

Happy Trails!

 

 

Copper Lake 3961′

Heaven ain't got nothin' on this place!
Heaven ain’t got nothin’ on this place!

Copper Lake is typically the second lake one will reach on the West Fork Foss Lakes Trail #1064, the first being Trout Lake.

Comparing the two though is like night and day.

GETTIN’ THERE

As previously mentioned, you can get there by way of the Foss Lakes trail. You could feasibly get there all kinds of ways, but the trail is by far the easiest.

HIKING

Copper Lake is one of the more popular destinations along the Foss trail, and being more or less the middle point, provides a decent base to explore the surrounding peaks, lakes and “whathaveyas”.

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A lake in the sky

There is a collapsed adit at the south end of the lake, in fact the trail utilizes the tailings pile as it heads to Little Heart Lake.

According to DWHM#1 there may exist a claim “1 mile south of Malachite Lake on a ridge west of Copper Lake”.  It is described as a “Caved pit and caved adit”.

I’ve heard speculation that these may be the same claim.

FISHING

I’ve caught both Cutthroats and Brook Trout out of Copper Lake. The most convenient fishing access is at the north end of the lake, but the intrepid may be able to find access to less accessible shoreline.

If you are so inclined, you could hike up an inflatable raft and ply the azure waters until your heart is content.

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“Point 5890”

CAMPING

Copper Lake is pretty big, and the trail ambles along it’s eastern shore for it’s entirety. This affords many campsites to choose from.

The north end of the lake hold the lion’s share of campsites, but others exist along the trail, and between Copper and Little Heart Lakes.

There is a backcountry toilet available for use here, so please, if nature calls, use it rather than a cathole.

Campfires are prohibited at Copper Lake and any point over 4000’ft in the Alpine Lakes wilderness (west).

Other regulations may apply.

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Malachite Peak

Little Heart Lake 4204′

Little Heart Lake
Little Heart Lake

To get to Little Heart Lake you’ve most likely passed Copper Lake, and while extremely diminutive by those standards, Little Heart is nonetheless an alpine gem and a destination unto itself.

GETTIN’ THERE

Little Heart Lake can be reached by taking the West Fork Foss River Lakes Trail #1064

HIKING

There is a gap high above the south end of the lake which could be used to reach the remote north west arm of Big Heart Lake.

from the NE
from the NE

Camp Robber Peak is also attainable via this route.

Note: You may have to get wet…

FISHING

I can personally vouch that there are Cutthroat Trout in this lake.

Wide open and reasonably accessible boulder shores in the north-east corner of the lake provide ample room for fly-casting.

CAMPING

There are a few established campsites at Little Heart Lake and along the trail that connects it to Copper Lake.

There is little opportunity to camp between Little Heart and Big Heart.

Campfires are prohibited at Little Heart Lake and at any point over 4000′ along the trail.

Other regulations may apply.

All kinds of talus!
All kinds of talus!

West Fork Foss Lakes Trail #1064

Sunrise at Copper Lake
Sunrise at Copper Lake

The West Fork Foss Lakes trail has long been one of my favorites.

I remember coming to Trout Lake with my “Uncle Bones” when I was just a kid, and then as now, the trail still wows me with every step.

THE NUMBERS

Trout Lake
Trout Lake

Elevation gain: 3300’±

Mileage: 14.6mi RT±

Difficulty: YDS 2 , be in reasonable shape

Free loading birds in your backpack the minute you turn around: n=n1 x n2/m2 x f(t²)

THE HIKING

Your journey starts out easily enough, gradually gaining elevation along the Foss River and it’s mostly dry flood channels.

Keep an eye out to your right for Shoestring Falls, descending into the Foss on it’s west bank.

The West Fork Foss River
The West Fork Foss River

About a mile in you’ll come to a very well built bridge which, if it’s secretly anthropomorphic, is likely counting the days until the next major flooding event, the likes of which destroyed it’s predecessor.

Counting the days...
Counting the days…

Standing on the bridge, you are a little less than a mile down trail from Trout Lake.

Along the remainder of the way there are a couple of points of interest;

One is an absolutely monstrous tree (can’t miss it). If you hike this trail with friends I can guarantee we’ll have one thing in common; a picture of someone standing in front of this tree.

Standard tree photo
Standard tree photo

The other is marked by a rusted 2-½in pipe crossing the trail. Without going into too much detail; above this pipe, blasted into the flanks of Malachite Peak is the 772′ long Imperial #2 tunnel, and the 112′ Vine Maple Prospect.

Below the pipe, along the banks of the Foss River, is the site of the old Imperial Power Plant. Not much remains, but the occasional rusted metal relic can sometimes be found.

Leavin' the lake
Leavin’ the lake

At Trout Lake take a breather, cast a line or stay the night at one of it’s campsites.

The trail begins to climb significantly after passing the west shore of the lake, almost 2000′ in less than two miles!

Silver Eagle Peak dominates the eastern horizon as you switchback up through mixed forest and shrub. At one point you’ll pass a corner with easy access to a slabby watercourse, great for dipping your head into and refilling empty water bottles.

Get used to seeing this guy
Get used to seeing this guy

Malachite Falls becomes visible as you gain elevation, it’ll be filling your ears with it’s 618′ of waterfally-ness before you can see it.

You’ll continue to gain elevation, eventually surpassing the waterfall and coming to an intersection with the Lake Malachite trail.

NOTE: You may also notice a sign near here that says “Campfires prohibited beyond this point” This means ALL points along this trail beyond this sign (Specifically any point above 4000′)

You can't "unsee" it
You can’t “unsee” it

Lake Malachite is only a short, sorta steep hike from here, offering great views, a few campsites, and fishing.

Malachite
Lake Malachite

Less than half a mile from the intersection you’ll cross a fairytale-esque bridge of perfectly placed boulders before setting eyes upon beautiful Copper Lake.

The popular campsites fill up quick, but the lake is spacious enough to allow some breathing room if that’s what you are looking for.

Like Alice and the beanstalk or somethin'
Straight outta Alice and the Beanstalk

If Copper Lake isn’t your thing, the trail continues along it’s eastern shore towards Little Heart Lake.

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Not a whole lot jumps out at you on this section of trail, but you will pass over the tailings pile of a mining prospect at the south end of the lake, and there are a couple of established campsites along the way.

Little Heart Lake seems a little less hospitable by comparison, it’s smaller, and seems crammed into the surrounding rock. Upon first glance, shoreline access also seems extremely limited.

Exploring around however reveals some established campsites, and ample talus shoreline if you are a little more adventurous.

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Leaving Little Heart Lake, the trail again begins to climb, gaining a little under 1000ft in a mile, then losing a few hundred feet on the way to Big Heart Lake.

Little Heart Lake
Little Heart Lake

The views through here become more dramatic.

Looking back you’ll see Trout Lake (perhaps bringing back memories of when your legs were not on fire) Delta Lake is down below, Otter Lake peeks at you from across the valley, and then finally Big Heart Lake, shimmering at you through the trees.

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The first time you approach Big Heart Lake is likely to stick with you for the rest of your life…

You walk in on top of a little ridge that parallels a small arm of the lake. The water is deep, and bluer than anything you’ve yet seen, not unlike that mysterious fluid barber’s put their combs in.

Morning mist on Big Heart
Morning mist on Big Heart

Here the official trail ends, there are a few campsites available in the immediate area, and a couple more hidden about.

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For the ambitious hiker, this may only be the base camp, for there are numerous boot paths leading to many destinations: Angeline and Azurite Lakes, Camp Robber Peak, Chetwoot Lake, you could even make it a loop back down the Necklace Valley.

Beyond the official trail...
Beyond the official trail…

The West Fork Foss river trail is your oyster.

Bearing that in mind, leave your oyster better than you found it; pack it in, pack it out, leave no trace, take only pictures, leave only footprints, I’m sure you know them all.

Basically; Don’t be “that guy”.

Happy trails!

THE GETTING THERE

Firstly, I’d suggest driving to Skykomish to procure a pre-hike sandwich, or some campin’ booze at the ever friendly and delicious Sky Deli.

After filling up at Skykomish, head east on the “2” and you’ll pass the Skykomish Ranger Station, keep your eyes peeled for the Foss River Road branching south (right) from the highway. Take it.

Might be wantin' one of these...
Might be wantin’ one of these…

A little over a mile in you’ll pass beneath a gargantuan railroad trestle, and then hit a fork. Stay right.

You’ll pass the Necklace Valley trailhead on your left in another half mile, and a half mile past that is your left turn for the West Fork Foss River Trail#1064. The turn is signed, but can be missed.

nwtrailpass

Two miles from the intersection and you’ll be there.

The trailhead has ample parking and a pit toilet, but on summer weekends, try and come early because this is a popular trail, and is steadily gaining in popularity with every new Ballard condo.

THE REQUIRED DOCUMENTS

Currently a NW trailpass or other qualifying document (America the beautiful interagency pass) is required at the trailhead.

Big Heart Lake
Big Heart Lake

References:

In addition to provided links,

Woodhouse, Phil; Jacobson, Daryl; Petersen, Bill; Cady,Greg; Pisoni, Victor, Discovering Washington’s Historic Mines Vol.1: The West Central Cascade Mountains. Oso Publishing Company, 1997

 

 

 

 

Lennox Mountain (North Fork Approach)

That's Lennox
That’s Lennox

This journey begins at the Bare Mountain trailhead, approx. 20 miles out of North Bend down the North Fork road.

THE NUMBERS

Elevation gain: 4000’±

Mileage: 10mi RT±

Ice cold lakes mocking you on a blazing hot day: 4

(fortunately Bear Lake is along the way, and pleasantly swimmable!)

THE HIKING

Behr Gap from Bear Lake
Behr Gap from Bear Lake

The Bare Mountain trail begins upon a very unpleasant substrate of grapefruit sized rocks, which are just a pain in the butt to walk on, especially on the way down, and especially when wet.

The second obstacle of note is the Bear Creek crossing which can be very treacherous during the melt or other high water.

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The trail continues along, passing over Bear creek once again, but this time across a steadily deteriorating bridge.

After the bridge, the trail surface turns to dirt and is much more agreeable to walk upon.

J Viejo ascending the ridge
J Viejo ascending the ridge

Forest gives way to open slopes of Bracken Fern and shrubbery. At about 2 miles you will reach an intersection consisting of a switchback sharply heading left at a 20˚ angle, or a rough hewn trail heading straight ahead.

Heading straight leads to Bear Basin, while the switchback leads to Bare Mountain. Go straight.

Behr Gap
Behr Gap

The trail leads over a few old bridges in varying states of decay, proceeds to pass some mining debris and aircraft wreckage before reaching another intersection. This time take a left.

This leads to a small open area with scattered debris. Look for a trail heading uphill into the woods. (At the time of this writing it’s marked by a purple dog poop bag)

Keep heading up, over a small bridge made of old pipe, then passing an established camp along the creek.

The slabs
The slabs

The trail continues uphill, becoming more rough hewn the higher you get.

The Greek using the helper rope
The Greek using the helper rope

You’ll break out of the woods and onto alpine shrubs and talus. Here you might notice the light colored tailing piles of a couple of mines above you. You’ll want to work your way up towards the one on the right.

Climbing the tailings pile will put you in front of an open adit. To the right of it follow the boot path heading up the hill.

Lots and lots of talus
Lots and lots of talus

Things begin to steepen up here, and in wetter years or during the melt, this area is more or less a waterfall. There is one section that has a helper rope. It comes in handy, but the user agreement clearly states that the rope accepts no responsibility should it break.

The next stop is Bear Lake.

If you intend to overnight, this isn’t a bad place to bivouac for the night.

Leaving the lake, climb up the talus toward the gap to the NW. Here you’ll get your first view of Mt.Phelps, as well as the Paradise Lakes.

Last chance for water area
Last chance for water area

Let’s call this Paradise Gap. No wait, I got a better idea! Let’s call it Behr Gap! Gotta stick with the naming consistency!

Anyway, from here gain the ridge to the east. This is the western ridge of Canoe Peak.

Standing atop the ridge will reveal Lennox Mountain, as well as the long traverse you’ll have to surmount to get there. If you keep a good pace, the average hiker can expect to get to the summit in about 2-3 hours from here.

Descend the ridge until it’s more level and head east across boulder sized talus, traversing your way towards Lennox.

Soon you’ll come to a flat meadow area, which is also your last chance for water for some time. This is also a good place to assess the terrain and make your plan.

Approx. Map
Approx. Map

Gaining the ridge is obvious, but where?

Much of the ridge wall is sheer cliff as you’ll see. Stay low, but on the talus. There will be a treed portion which hides a gap after you ascend loose talus and steep heather.

Steep heather to the gap
Steep heather to the gap

This will put you on the ridge, looking down upon Coney Basin.

Now head NE, staying below the ridgeline itself.

For the most part this is just more talus travel, but there is a short section in which you’ll make use of narrow meadow ledges to cross some short cliffs.

Coney Lake (Wolverine fire in background)
Coney Lake (Wolverine fire in background)

Eventually you’ll run into a deep gully. Parallel it up the talus, looking for another heather gap.

This will put you on top of the ridge, as well as give you a look at lovely Coney Lake and your quarry; Lennox Summit.

At this point just aim yourself toward the summit and enjoy a walk on top of the world through alpine meadows, heather and world class views.

Lennox Summit
Lennox Summit

You made it!

If your legs aren’t noodles by now, the hike back will seal the deal.

Good Luck and Happy trails!

Summit Panorama
Summit Panorama

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

McClellan’s Butte 5162′

Ol’Mac looms…

If you are driving down the I-90 and spending more time looking out the window than on the road, McClellan’s Butte is hard to miss. It’s the big rocky spire, sorta looks like the Matterhorn from some angles.

Anyway, most rubbernecking hikers probably fall into one of two camps:

A: Man! I gotta climb that thing!

or…

Hanging out along the ridge
Hanging out along the ridge

B: There is no F$%#ing way you’d catch me up there!

Well guess what? Ol’ Mac’s Butte is a win-win!

The prominent rocky spire doesn’t disappoint those looking for an airy scramble, and allows some decent bragging rights the next time you’re rubbernecking down the ’90.

Alternatively, if exposed scrambling isn’t your thing, the Butte provides a challenging enough hike and great views from a slightly less lofty perch just below the imposing monolith.

THE NUMBERS

a4

Distance: 9-12 miles RT

Elevation gain: 3700′ ft (1128m)

Difficulty: YDS-1 hike, YDS-3-4 scramble

Licks to get to it’s center: The world may never know…

THE NAME

Spittin’ Image!

McClellan’s Butte is named for General George B. McClellan, a civil war era general and moustache aficionado which history seems to hold in mixed regard.

In 1853, George was here in the Washington territory surveying possible routes for the coming railroad.

Ultimately, he came to the conclusion that Yakima Pass near Tinkham Peak would be the best option for the rails, however no one else of consequence shared his opinion and Yakima Pass was never used.

McClellan’s efforts were however recognized, and his name was bestowed upon the butte, perhaps, some speculate, due to their uncanny resemblance.

Later Ol’ George even made an unsuccessful presidential bid against the incumbent President Abraham Lincoln.

In the end McClellan died of a heart attack in Orange, New Jersey at the age of 58.

 

Biggest trees on the '90!
Biggest trees on the ’90!

THE HIKING

We start out just off the Tinkham Road exit on the ’90. The trailhead is just a little way south of the interstate up a dirt road.

(There does however exist cheaters parking area further along the FS 9020)

milwlogo8

The trail briefly winds along through forest, then beneath power lines, meandering along old grades. Early along there is a split, either way you’ll end up at the John Wayne Trail (Old Milwaukee Road)

Heading west at the split along an old grade will take you along the “official” trail.

Reaching the Milwaukee Road, you’ll likely hear Alice Creek to your left and might see a bicyclist or two scoot on by, to continue up the butte trail, look to your right.

Off trail scrambling
Off trail scrambling

It’s within this next section that one can find the “old” trail which ambles past the Alice Claim , where one can view a handful of mining relics from an earlier era.

The next grade crossing is that of the FS 9020 (the cheaters parking area), not a lot to see here but a gravel road, and usually some parked cars. Press on!

You may have noticed by now that there are some pretty impressive trees along the trail. Somehow these giants were spared the lumberjacks unforgiving sawblade, while their less fortunate brethren are now only massive stumps.

These are some of, if not the largest trees along the ’90, so feel free to plop your butt down and view them with reverence and awe.

Lotsa big ol' trees
Lotsa big ol’ trees

The trail now begins to climb, and soon, at about the halfway point, the next and most dangerous landmarks will appear…

THE AVALANCHE CHUTES

As is evident from the lack of trees (or most anything but rock and snow) avalanches regularly thunder down these gullies when conditions are right for it.

Avalanches don’t always happen when you might expect!

Even during a nice, sunny spring day, so long as there is snow in the upper reaches, a slab of white death can break off and before you can say “Kalamazoo!” you’re history.

Just food for thought…. be aware!

Always check the Northwest Avalanche Center website for current avalanche conditions. (…and donate!)

Post thaw avalanche chute
Post thaw avalanche chute

Avalanches aside, these gullies can also be dangerous to cross for the unprepared as when they are snow filled they can be extremely steep.

Furthermore they can be undermined by flowing water and a simple posthole could potentially put you in the drink, or worse.

Carry the right gear, and know how to use it.

AHEM, BACK TO THE HIKING…

So after the avalanche gullies, the trail continues up and up.

Eventually you’ll round the south end of the ridge and sparse views of the FORBIDDEN lands of the Cedar River watershed will appear.

The trail does a large sort of U-Turn and soon you’re traversing the west side of the ridge.

The forbidden lands
The forbidden lands

(Note: this is a good place to jump off trail if you wanna scramble the whole ridge)

Here is a nice pleasant respite from the singularly upward direction of the trail prior to this, and with westward views and mountain meadows to boot!

Soon you’ll find yourself passing below the large rock walls of the ridge  before turning upwards, just below the summit block itself.

A steeper rocky section of trail is the last little bit to conquer before finding yourself at the landing beneath the imposing, monolithic block that is Ol’ Mac.

Ol' Harry up on the block
Ol’ Harry up on the block

THE BLOCK

As you will certainly see, the block is pretty exposed.

Climbing out onto it, you might think that exposed is an understatement when you discover that the block essentially terminates into oblivion, and any resultant falls from here would likely result in death, or worse.

Stay within your comfort zone, this isn’t a place to screw around.

That being said, the block isn’t technically difficult, and affords many hand and footholds that have been tried and tested hundreds of times before. (Never hurts to double check)

I read somewhere that at one time there existed an aviation navigational light at the top of Ol’ Mac, part of a system of lights that guided aircraft to Seattle.

“The Closer” ascending the block

In those times there was also a handhold and more of a path to the top. (At the moment my book collection is in storage,  so I’ll get back to you all about the specifics)

Along the scramble you can occasionally spy remnants of those days etched into the rock.

Once on the top you’ll be handsomely rewarded for your efforts (weather permitting) as you are standing upon one of the best viewpoints along the I90.

360º of unobstructed views!

ALTERNATIVE ROUTES

In Cascade Alpine Guide vol. 1, Beckey describes a couple different routes;

One of them is ascending to the summit ridge via the upper south slopes by way of the second avalanche gully as a moderate winter or spring snow climb.

This one I can vouch for, as a couple friends and I took it one spring without knowing it was really a route. The slopes here are steep, but if you keep your wits about you, the ascent to the ridge is a piece of cake. Some light class 3 scrambling is the worst of it.

Ascending the south slopes
Ascending the south slopes

Keep in mind however, there are a lot of loose rocks, and you are climbing directly above a fairly popular trail.

Another is the East Spur, which I gather is essentially taking the first avalanche gully directly to the summit, I’ve looked at it and intend to give it a try someday, appears to be a long class 2-3 scramble.

The NORTH BASIN is more of a climbing route, popular when the basin is snow filled. I have read that the rock near the upper reaches is pretty loose and crumbly and may have been a factor in a 2005 fatality along this route.

ETC…

McClellan’s Butte has a little something for everybody, and while a popular destination, thus far never seems too crowded.

Besides the summit block, the entire trail is YDS class 1, however, McClellan’s Butte, or any mountain should never be taken lightly; Steep Slopes, avalanche chutes, and George McClellan’s ghost are just a few hazards one may encounter while treading upon it’s flanks.

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The ’90 snaking across the land

 

There is often water available along the route, so bring a filter etc and fill up along the way.

Anyway, be prepared, leave it better than you found it, see ya there

Happy Trails!

Jack "The Bulge" at the summit
Jack “The Bulge” at the summit

GETTING THERE

Take exit 42 West Tinkham Rd. and head south, you’ll pass a WSDOT facility and a gated road on your right before coming to another road veering up and right to the trailhead. Sometimes this is signed, other times not. Either way it is a very short drive from the freeway offramp, so if you can’t find it, you probably went too far.

PASSES

nwtrailpass

Currently a NW Trailpass is required for parking.

 

 

References:

Beckey, Fred, Cascade Alpine Guide vol.1 Columbia River to Stevens Pass. The Mountaineers Books, 1973